By Lydia Fletcher
A few miles away from his former restaurant, Preacher’s Son, lies Matthew Cooper’s latest project: Conifer.
Conifer was created to fill Bentonville’s need for another gluten-free restaurant that doesn’t conflict with what other chefs are doing. The award-winning chef said Conifer was already in the works when he left his Executive Chef position at Preacher’s Son in 2020.
Cooper said he always tries to be aware of what his community needs, and does what he can to provide it.
“The world has kind of this mentality that you can’t see the forest for the trees,” said Cooper. “But we’ve started to learn, to remember, that trees make up the forest and people, individual people, make the community.”
Cooper’s idea of community can be seen throughout the intimate dining space. A long slab of wood, the community table, is at the front of the restaurant, right next to the open kitchen.
Dining space inside Conifer. Photo courtesy of Conifer.
The open kitchen defies many rules of upscale dining. Most restaurants build wall-like partitions, keeping the action behind the screen. Cooper said that is exactly the opposite of what he wants Conifer to be.
“It’s not all smoke and mirrors,” said Cooper. “We get busy, and if you’re sitting at the bar you can see everything. It’s there so that people can see the imperfection.”
The 50/50 kitchen-seating ratio, refusal of the “fine dining” label and a rotating menu with input from all staff members are just a few more ways Cooper goes against the norm.
While most restaurants describe their staff as “family,” this is truly the case at Conifer. Cooper said that if you added the collective years his staff has worked with him it would be around 60 years.
One of those staff members, Holly Ray, has been working with Cooper for seven years. She started as a barista and quickly rose to become bar manager at their former restaurant. Now, she is the general manager and future partner of Conifer.
“Everybody has a voice and we take that into account,” said Ray. “It only makes our restaurant better. It makes us more relatable because everyone’s perspective is involved.”
Regardless of what items are on the menu, Cooper said local, regional and sustainable ingredients will always be at the forefront. He said he works with local farmers to find the best meats and produce, and also honors his Northwestern roots with sustainable seafood options.
The menu is also 100% gluten-free, but Cooper said he doesn’t want this to be the defining factor of the restaurant. A gluten-free menu also creates added costs, as avoiding cross-contaminated ingredients is both essential and expensive.
Cooper has Celiac Disease, which is an autoimmune intolerance of a protein in wheat, barley, rye, and malt, so the food has to be gluten-free for his health. Finding accessible restaurants when you have a food intolerance or allergy can be incredibly difficult. Conifer’s gluten-free menu and allergy awareness can help customers feel safe during their dining experience.
Cooper said he is happy to talk to customers about the menu whether it revolves around allergy concerns or just explaining what the ingredients are. Current items on the menu include a mix of small and large plates with a wide variety of local, sustainable ingredients.
Cooper said current customer favorites include the grilled halloumi small plate and the coffee-rubbed tri-tip, but he’s most excited for his buffalo fried lion’s mane mushroom with smoked blue cheese whip.
Photo courtesy of @HangryPedalerNWA.
The menu changes seasonally and hyper-seasonally depending on what Cooper and the farmers he works with have access to.
The gluten-free menu also creates added costs, as avoiding cross-contaminated ingredients is both essential and expensive. A $30 to $40 entrée may not fit everyone’s budget, but Cooper said his prices are to ensure the livelihoods of the farmers he works with as well as the staff at Conifer.
As Conifer’s manager, Ray helps manage many of the day-to-day operations, including booking reservations, media appearances, and of course working with local farmers.
“If we’re going to charge a certain amount for an apple we’re going to make sure that the farmer who grew those apples had a great day selling them to us,” said Ray. “Because we want to make sure that he’s not just paid for his product, but he’s paid for his hard work.”
From taking care of his staff to making sure the menu is accessible to customers, Cooper’s idea of community care can be seen all over the restaurant.
Housed on the first floor of The Howard, the earthy decor and intimate space provide a cozy atmosphere.
Photo courtesy of Conifer.
Next door lies The Farmstand, a small store helping provide more people with farm-fresh food. The fridges are stocked with produce, meat, and eggs, while shelves are lined with gluten-free snacks and pantry staples.
Cooper said he is working with The Howard to make sure its residents have 24/7 access to the Farmstand and uses it to help support farmers.
Conifer brings together the farmer, the staff, and the customer, creating a dining experience where Chef Cooper’s mission of community is clearly seen.
“We want anyone to be able to come into this space with a baseball hat and t-shirt,” said Cooper. “Come as you are, who you are, and enjoy good food.”